Venice Speed Shop

4505 Glencoe Ave.
Marina del Rey, CA 90292

FAQ

Q: How do I install Batwing and Hairpin Radius Rod Kit?
A: Installation of this kit is easily accomplished with a minimum of difficulty. Listed below are some tips and instructions to make the installation easier. Note: Installation of this kit requires you to have the front axle mocked up at ride height. To make this easier we recommend you use only the main leaf out of the spring pack. This makes it easier to compress and hold at the proper ride height, yet still holds everything in the correct relationship.

Venice Speed Shop recommends that this kit only be used with an I-beam axle. The use of a tube axle with hairpin radius rods places extreme stress on the font suspension because a tube axle will not twist. Owner and installer take any responsibility and liability if this product is used with a tube axle.

1:	Assemble the main leaf, shackles and perches and set aside. See figure 1
2:	Layout front axle and slip the preassembled hairpin/batwing assembly onto the axle. Insert the spring perches through the batwings and axle and gently tighten down the perch nuts. See figure 2.
3:	Place the front axle under the front of the car and jack up until the car is at ride height. See figure 3.
4:	Assemble rear rod end, bolt and bracket to the back end of the radius rods and place under the frame. See figure 4. NOTE: The long pin of the radius rod should be to the bottom causing the axle to lean back when viewed from the side.
5:	Square up the front axle to side, front to rear and diagonally. Note: Make sure that the axle is in the proper location front to rear and that the leaf spring is not in bind.
6:	When you are satisfied that everything is in its correct location, tack the rear radius rod bracket in position. NOTE: The long pin of the radius rod should be to the bottom causing the axle to lean back when viewed from the side.
7:	Double check everything one final time.
8:	Weld in the rear mount making sure correct welding procedures are followed and that good penetration is achieved.
9:	Install the Panhard bar making sure it is mounted close to horizontal with the frame end slightly higher. See figure 5
10:	Check caster and make any preliminary adjustments before installing the upper shock mounts. Your finished assembly should look like figure 6.

Q: How do I install a Break Line Kit?
A: The Venice Speed Shop disc front/drum rear Brake Line Kit has been engineered specifically for the Venice Speed Shop Step-Boxed™ chassis. While it may be possible to “adjust” it to fit other '32 chassis, we can not guarantee it. Installation of the kit can be easily carried out using regular shop tools. Each piece of stainless line is tagged for placement and if you follow these step-by-step instructions the job can be easily completed in a couple of hours. NOTE: Do not fully tighten the fittings until you have trial-fitted all the lines and located and installed the line clamps.

1:	Begin by installing the “fixed” components, the master cylinder and the Wilwood proportioning valve. A bracket for the master cylinder and a boss for the proportioning valve are part of the Venice Speed Shop Step-Boxed™ chassis package. Hardware for the proportioning valve is included and it should be mounted with the handle pointing downward, towards the ground for easy adjustment after the car is completed.	Click For Bigger Image
2:	Install the front part of the brake line system first. Begin with the line from the master cylinder and run it down the driver's side of the chassis. Remember, only hand tighten the fitting into the Venice Speed Shop master cylinder—part #030-70571.	Click For Bigger Image
3:	Install the blue (2 psi) Wilwood residual valve using the included brass fittings.	Click For Bigger Image
4:	Install the next piece of line. Remember to run it through the hole in the top of the engine mount.	Click For Bigger Image
5:	Install the brass Tee junction.	Click For Bigger Image
6:	Install the flexible front brake lines into the tabs on the chassis.	Click For Bigger Image
7:	Install the U-shaped line that runs from the brass Tee down to the chassis driver's side tab.	Click For Bigger Image
8:	Install the line that runs along the backside of the front crossmember. It is bent at the end to align with the passenger side front brake line tab.	Click For Bigger Image
9:	Return to the master cylinder and install the rear brake line.	Click For Bigger Image
10:	Install the red (10 psi) Wilwood residual valve.	Click For Bigger Image

11:	Install the line between the red residual valve and the proportioning valve.	Click For Bigger Image
12:	Install the short kinked line to the rear brake line tab.	Click For Bigger Image
13:	Install the brass Tee fitting to your axle housing. Venice Speed Shop axles come pre-drilled and tapped. If your axle is not drilled you'll need to drill it 25/64” and tap it 7/16-20. Note: The Tee fitting is held in place by a special Venice Speed Shop vent tube needed to vent the axle. You'll need to run a hose up out of the way to prevent the oil from siphoning out.	Click For Bigger Image
14:	Install the fixed lines that run from the Tee fitting to the rear brake drums.	Click For Bigger Image
15:	Once all the lines and components have been temporarily installed you can install the line clamps. Carefully choose the position for your clamps to avoid other components.	Click For Bigger Image
16:	Mark the position of the line clamp with a center punch.	Click For Bigger Image
17:	Drill a #21 pilot hole.	Click For Bigger Image
18:	Tap the hole 10-32.	Click For Bigger Image
19:	Blow away any chips and oil.	Click For Bigger Image
20:	Screw the line clamp into position.	Click For Bigger Image

21:	When you're ready, you can do the final installation. Remember, all the fittings in this kit, with the exception of the brass fittings on the Wilwood components, are of the inverted-flare style and do NOT need to be sealed. The brass fittings, where they are installed into the Wilwood components, DO need to be sealed with either Permatex sealant or with teflon tape. NOTE: When using teflon tape be sure to start it one thread away from the end of the thread so as not to block the hole and cause a brake problem. Don't forget, we highly recommend you also use a Panhard bar with a transverse leaf sprung front end.	Click For Bigger Image
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Q: How do I install Headlight Stands?
A: Headlight mounting is generally a matter of personal preference, but here are a few guidelines to help.

1:	Identify the driver (D) and passenger (P) side stands. See figure 1.
2:	F ront shock mounts must be installed or mocked up before the headlight stand can be mounted.
3:	A ssemble a headlight on a stand and move fore and aft on frame until a suitable location is found. Note: watch for interference problems with shock mounts or grille shell. See figure 2.
4:	O nce a suitable location has been determined, mark the position of the bolt holes with a scribe or pencil. Remove headlight and stand, and drill using 5/16-inch drill. See figure 3.
5:	Install headlight using the provided 5/16-inch carriage bolts, washer and nylock nuts. See figure 4.
6:	I nstall headlights and adjust. Note: some headlights may require modification to get full adjustment when mounted on stand. If this is necessary, disassemble headlight and file slot with a square file to give the needed adjustment. See figure 5.

Q: How do I install Dash Inserts?
A: The Venice Speed Shop dash insert is designed to fit in a variety of early car dashes. The instructions that follow are universal and can be applied to any type of dash.

1:	A ccurately cut out the paper template and note the location of the centerline marks. See figure 1.
2:	P lace the template against your dash to determine the position for your new insert. See figure 2
3:	P lace the paper template against your dash again and position using the layout marks. Tape into position. Note: Make sure your have the arrow on the template pointing up. See figure 3
4:	T ake a minute to stand back and visually check to make sure that the panel is leveled and looks correct where it is.
5:	C arefully scribe or mark with a pencil around the perimeter of the template and remove template from the dash.
6:	R emoval of the material inside the scribe lines can be accompished many ways and the method you choose will depend on the tools you have available. We have listed several ways that we have found to work well and have listed them from best to worst. Drill a small hole next to and inside the scribe line and cut out the insert using a small, air-powered saw with a fine-tooth blade. Drill a series of 1/4-inch holes around the inside perimeter of the scribe line keeping the holes as close to each other as possible. Use side dikes to snip any remaining metal and remove the waste piece. Use a die grinder to trim out any remaining material. We recommend the use of Black and Decker Bullet drills as we've found them to cut sheetmetal cleanly without grabbing. If your dashborad is removable, you may drill a hole inside the perimeter, weld a bandsaw blade through it and cut the hole out on a bandsaw. The last option is to use a nibbler or jigsaw with a very fine blade. If you use this option be very careful because they may distort your panel or grab unexpectedly.
7:	W hichever option you choose, use extreme care to make the cutout accurate to the template because there is only a small lip around the edge of the dash panel to cover the hole.
8:	I nstall the dash insert into the dash and place the clamps on the studs on the backside of the panel. The long clamps go on the top of the panel and the short clamps on the bottom. Install the lockwashers and 10-32 nuts and gently tighten being careful not to distort the dash. See figure 4.
9:	I nstall your gauges. Your finished installation should be like figure 5
10:	D on't forget to use Venice Speed Shop's matching dash and shift knobs.

Q: How do I install Swan Neck Mirrors?
A: Sculpted by Jon "Jake" Cohen to resemble those classic mirrors of early luxury cars, the Venice Speed Shop outside mirror features a beautiful die-cast swan neck design along with a 4-inch diameter stainless steel-backed mirror. It's easy to install if you follow these simple instructions. NOTE: The mirror's Tear drop base has been given a slight concave shape for precise location and "grip" so that you don't have to drill a second locating hole.

1:	Begin by establishing the desired location. It's probably a good idea to have somebody hold the mirror in different positions while you sit in the driver's seat and figure which position best suits you. Apply some 2-inch masking tape to the area and mark out the location of the mounting hole.
2:	Once you have marked out the position of the mirror and marked its location, center punch the position of the hole.
3:	Drill a 1/8-inch pilot hole.
4:	Drill out the mounting hole to 5/16.
5:	Here's the mounting hole drilled and the masking tape removed.
6:	After removing the interior trim, you can bolt on the mirror using the rubber gasket supplied to protect the paint.
7:	O nce the mirror stem is bolted up snugly, you can easily adjust the mirror head.

Q: How do I install Upper Shock Mounts?
A: Installation of the Venice Speed Shop Upper Shock Mounts is a straightforward project with minimum difficulty. Here are some tips to make your installation easier.

1:	Identify driver (D) and passenger (P) side mounts. See figure 1.
2:	Make sure all weight is in the car or that the final ride height has been mocked up before you start the installation.
3:	The lower shock mount must be in place and the axle caster must be correct before you begin.
4:	Install your shocks on the lower mounts and tighten.
5:	Install Venice Speed Shop upper hock mounts into the shock eyes and tighten the securing bolt. Note: The Venice Speed Shop Upper Shock Mounts use 5/8-internal diameter bushings which are provided. If your shocks do not have that size bushing, you will have to press them out and insert the Venice Speed Shop bushings.
6:	Place upper shock mount against the frame and adjust its height to center the bolt holes in the frame. See figure 2.
7:	When you are satisfied with the location of the upper shock mount, mark the hole locations with a scribe or pencil and remove the shock and shock mount from the car.
8:	At this time, you have a choice in the installation process. you may either use the provided bungs and weld them into the frame or simply drill 7/16- inch holes in the frame and bolt on the upper shock mounts using nuts and lock washers. You must have access to the backside of the frame to use this method.
9:	Weld-in method (recommended unless you have a painted, unboxed frame). Using a 3/4-inch hole saw or drill bit, drill holes at the selected locations. Deburr and place the frame bung into the hole leaving about 1/8-inch sticking out and tack into place. See figure 3 . Install upper shock mount to double check fit and location. Remove mount and weld if everything looks right. What you are looking for is shown in figure 4 . When you paint this you can file the paint off the flat and the shock mount will be metal-to-metal with the frame, with no blown-off paint. Bolt on upper shock mount using antisieze.
10:	Install shock and check to see if it is in approximately mid travel. If the shock bottoms out during normal suspension travel, different shocks may be necessary.
11:	The final installation should look like figure 5.

Q: How do I install the Windshield?
A: The Venice Speed Shop Windshield is a brass casting, it naturally contains some porosity. To achieve an excellent chrome plated finish we strongly advise that the frame be copper plated and block sanded before it is first nickel and then chrome plated. The blocked copper will eliminate the surface irregularities and it will also allow the frame to be easily stripped in the future should the frame ever need replating. Work with your plater to achieve the desired finish.
Note: When it's time to install the glass, use spacers on each side of the glass and silicone to seal.

1:	Cover the area of the cowl (in front of the ridge), where the base of the windshield frame will make contact with the cowl, with masking tape.
2:	With some help, set the windshield (without mounting studs) onto the cowl. Snug it into position making sure that it is centrally located. Using a pencil or pen, mark around the windshield frame directly on the masking tape.
3:	Make a template out of cardboard to match the bottom of the frame. The piecut at the top left of the template is cut out so that the template can fit the contours of the bottom of the frame.
4:	Make a hole in the template to correspond with the mounting hole in the frame.